An Absurd Theft and a Surreal Investigation
During fieldwork in the Shipibo community of Vencedor in the Peruvian Amazon, an ethnographic researcher's glasses and USB memory disappeared. This triggered a shamanic investigation, revealing the importance of plants like toé and ayahuasca in attaining knowledge.
Pedro Pérez, the doctor, with canachiari leaves (toé or burundanga or Brugmansia) on his forehead, before beginning his surrealist investigation.
Text and photos by Carlos Suárez Álvarez
Originally published in issue 188 of Cáñamo magazine, August 2013.
…the young people avoid me, they said we’re going to help you, will you take me hunting? yes, yes, acquiescent smiles, when will you take me to the forest? any time now, they slip away, the work doesn’t progress, I’ll go to another village that’s more cooperative, I’ll give an ultimatum at the assembly this afternoon…
—I said I wanted to do research on the young people but they aren’t helping me.
…I’ll have to show myself serious, stern, threatening, crisis, anger…
—I’m thinking of going to Irasola. I’ll research the customs there.
…I despair in the hammock, boredom, impotence, Ómar in front of my house, with a net on his back, paddle, bow and arrows, gasoline, he’s going fishing!, this is my chance, quickly, he slips away, after him…
—Where are you going?
…I know where you’re going, this time you won’t escape…
—To the lagoon, to fish.
…without turning, he flees, this time he’s going to take me…
—Can I go with you?
…a knot in my throat, take me, please, Ómar, the most open of the boys, take me…
—Ask my brother Darwin.
…hope, orange morning sun, women bringing water, beautiful day, Vencedor, idyllic village, children standing at attention in front of the school…
—Attention! Stand at ease! Rest!
…the circumspection of the military teacher, flag raising, the Peru anthem that the students don’t remember, women weeding, men in the gardens, and Darwin walking in my direction…
—Can I go fishing with you?
…seventeen years old, husband and father, adult, and I begging like a boy…
—Do you want to come?
—Yes.
…anxious, please, take me…
—Let’s go then.
…thanks, joy, the camera, the cap, jubilation, I’m going fishing with a young man, my ethnography finally starts, first outing after three weeks, patience is the mother of science…
—I said I wanted to do research on the young people but they aren’t helping me.
…I’ll have to show myself serious, stern, threatening, crisis, anger…
—I’m thinking of going to Irasola. I’ll research the customs there.
…I despair in the hammock, boredom, impotence, Ómar in front of my house, with a net on his back, paddle, bow and arrows, gasoline, he’s going fishing!, this is my chance, quickly, he slips away, after him…
—Where are you going?
…I know where you’re going, this time you won’t escape…
—To the lagoon, to fish.
…without turning, he flees, this time he’s going to take me…
—Can I go with you?
…a knot in my throat, take me, please, Ómar, the most open of the boys, take me…
—Ask my brother Darwin.
…hope, orange morning sun, women bringing water, beautiful day, Vencedor, idyllic village, children standing at attention in front of the school…
—Attention! Stand at ease! Rest!
…the circumspection of the military teacher, flag raising, the Peru anthem that the students don’t remember, women weeding, men in the gardens, and Darwin walking in my direction…
—Can I go fishing with you?
…seventeen years old, husband and father, adult, and I begging like a boy…
—Do you want to come?
—Yes.
…anxious, please, take me…
—Let’s go then.
…thanks, joy, the camera, the cap, jubilation, I’m going fishing with a young man, my ethnography finally starts, first outing after three weeks, patience is the mother of science…
* * * * * * *
…noon, drowsiness, hammock, zinc sheet roof roasting the air, outside the crushing white light, laziness, I have to write that since Ómar, with his body still undeveloped, couldn’t cast the cast net, he took care of the motor, write that Darwin cast the net with Olympic coordination and caught enough fish for two days in three hours of work, write everything with details, discipline, to the table, the notebook, the pen, the glasses, where are the glasses?, table, floor, backpack, they took my glasses and the USB memory, they robbed me, what bastards, they robbed me, heat, bitterness, loneliness…
* * * * * *
The idyllic village of Vencedor.
—Brother Carlos, do you want to come in?
…community hall, half the village gathered, forty men and women, foreheads pearled with sweat, faded white light, hum of generator, important meeting, speaking in Shipibo, worried and relaxed, curious paradox, must write it down, lying down, laughing at a joke from the speaker, children coming and going, outside darkness, night calm, the Municipal Agent and the Lieutenant Governor, legal authorities, serious, moderating…
—Please describe the stolen items.
…unexpected concern, the process will help me understand certain social mechanisms related to theft and justice administration, must take advantage, dramatic tone…
—They are green glasses, that only fit me, they were inside a black case. But the most important thing is a small black device, because in it I keep my work from the computer. It’s very important that I recover that, please.
—What is the value of the items?
…calculations, two hundred euros, eight hundred soles, fifty-three workdays of a sawmill laborer, what a shame, lie…
—One hundred soles.
…community members speaking, Shipibo, soft murmur, flowing river, speaking calmly, listening silently, agreeing, authorities solemnly leaving…
—They went to see the doctor. Don’t worry Carlitos because Pedro is going to take his ayahuasca, and he will find it. And if not, tomorrow he will take his canachiari.
…cheering, clapping, surrounding me…
—We’re going to do research!
…an investigation in the other world, surreal, fun, worried, happy, authorities returning with contained satisfaction, announcement…
—Tonight Pedro will take his ayahuasca, we have already told him.
…everyone standing, sure of their method, applause, encouragement, pats on the back…
—We will find it!
…blind faith, excited conviction…
—For sure!
…community hall, half the village gathered, forty men and women, foreheads pearled with sweat, faded white light, hum of generator, important meeting, speaking in Shipibo, worried and relaxed, curious paradox, must write it down, lying down, laughing at a joke from the speaker, children coming and going, outside darkness, night calm, the Municipal Agent and the Lieutenant Governor, legal authorities, serious, moderating…
—Please describe the stolen items.
…unexpected concern, the process will help me understand certain social mechanisms related to theft and justice administration, must take advantage, dramatic tone…
—They are green glasses, that only fit me, they were inside a black case. But the most important thing is a small black device, because in it I keep my work from the computer. It’s very important that I recover that, please.
—What is the value of the items?
…calculations, two hundred euros, eight hundred soles, fifty-three workdays of a sawmill laborer, what a shame, lie…
—One hundred soles.
…community members speaking, Shipibo, soft murmur, flowing river, speaking calmly, listening silently, agreeing, authorities solemnly leaving…
—They went to see the doctor. Don’t worry Carlitos because Pedro is going to take his ayahuasca, and he will find it. And if not, tomorrow he will take his canachiari.
…cheering, clapping, surrounding me…
—We’re going to do research!
…an investigation in the other world, surreal, fun, worried, happy, authorities returning with contained satisfaction, announcement…
—Tonight Pedro will take his ayahuasca, we have already told him.
…everyone standing, sure of their method, applause, encouragement, pats on the back…
—We will find it!
…blind faith, excited conviction…
—For sure!
* * * * * * *
…gray day, sadness, hammock, negative thoughts, what to do to get close to the young people?, no one helps me, loneliness, stranger, theft, indifference, someone outside…
—Carlitos.
…peeking from the door, adult, around forty, serious, cap in hand…
—The Municipal Agent is traveling. I’m the Acting Municipal Agent. We will solve the problem. Wait.
…Acting Municipal Agent and Lieutenant Governor, investigating, house opposite, neighbors, accused?, conversation with the mother, Noemí entering the house, leaving, farewell, men coming toward me, at the door, minutes of silence…
—What do you think?
…their answer is a strange silence, lost looks…
—It was the boys from across the street. The doctor said so. This afternoon we will bring the doctor here so he can see and confirm it.
…little Michel, sidelong glance, eight years old, entering my house, taking oranges, taking papaya, banana, examining my belongings, coming in the morning to wake me, insolent, bold, Michel, yes, it was him, sure, I never liked him, crying, tantrums, across the street, mother Noemí with a stick, stick on the legs of her six-year-old daughter, stick on the legs of her four-year-old son, have they been accused?, problem for them, problem for me, it will be much harder to make contact with Walter and Lady, my teenage neighbors, their parents will forbid them from seeing me, the relationship will get strained, my work doesn’t progress…
—Carlitos.
…peeking from the door, adult, around forty, serious, cap in hand…
—The Municipal Agent is traveling. I’m the Acting Municipal Agent. We will solve the problem. Wait.
…Acting Municipal Agent and Lieutenant Governor, investigating, house opposite, neighbors, accused?, conversation with the mother, Noemí entering the house, leaving, farewell, men coming toward me, at the door, minutes of silence…
—What do you think?
…their answer is a strange silence, lost looks…
—It was the boys from across the street. The doctor said so. This afternoon we will bring the doctor here so he can see and confirm it.
…little Michel, sidelong glance, eight years old, entering my house, taking oranges, taking papaya, banana, examining my belongings, coming in the morning to wake me, insolent, bold, Michel, yes, it was him, sure, I never liked him, crying, tantrums, across the street, mother Noemí with a stick, stick on the legs of her six-year-old daughter, stick on the legs of her four-year-old son, have they been accused?, problem for them, problem for me, it will be much harder to make contact with Walter and Lady, my teenage neighbors, their parents will forbid them from seeing me, the relationship will get strained, my work doesn’t progress…
* * * * * * *
The house of accused family, right in front of the ethnographer's.
…darkness, candlelight, doctor Pedro in my house, old, frail, wrinkled, slow…
—Where was what they stole from you?
—On the table.
…hanging a mosquito net nearby…
—Here I’m going to do my work.
…taking out four large leaves…
—Canachiari.
…toé, burundanga, borrachero, scopolamine, potent, dangerous, visions, hallucinations, unreality, confusion…
—It’s a trunk that knows a lot and teaches many things. If you are here and want to see your wife, who is far away, you take the toé and it takes you to see your wife. You see if she’s farming, if she’s cooking, if she’s with another man… It also works to see thieves.
…two leaves on the forehead, two leaves on the nape, tied with a string, darkness, candle, mystery, silence, fear…
—You put it on at seven at night and at midnight you get dizziness. It’s a very strong dizziness, stronger than ayahuasca. The toé doesn’t lie, it tells the truth.
…sitting on the bench, head on the table, prayer in Shipibo, Don Carlitos interspersed, entering the mosquito net, silence, sleep, dreaming, Pedro snoring, dreaming, traveling through time, space, research…
—Where was what they stole from you?
—On the table.
…hanging a mosquito net nearby…
—Here I’m going to do my work.
…taking out four large leaves…
—Canachiari.
…toé, burundanga, borrachero, scopolamine, potent, dangerous, visions, hallucinations, unreality, confusion…
—It’s a trunk that knows a lot and teaches many things. If you are here and want to see your wife, who is far away, you take the toé and it takes you to see your wife. You see if she’s farming, if she’s cooking, if she’s with another man… It also works to see thieves.
…two leaves on the forehead, two leaves on the nape, tied with a string, darkness, candle, mystery, silence, fear…
—You put it on at seven at night and at midnight you get dizziness. It’s a very strong dizziness, stronger than ayahuasca. The toé doesn’t lie, it tells the truth.
…sitting on the bench, head on the table, prayer in Shipibo, Don Carlitos interspersed, entering the mosquito net, silence, sleep, dreaming, Pedro snoring, dreaming, traveling through time, space, research…
* * * * * * *
…peaceful morning, meeting, crowded community hall, Abraham and Noemí, their son Walter, accused, isolated, in the back, up front the Acting Municipal Agent, serious, the Lieutenant Governor, tension, worry, speaking in Shipibo, accusing their children of stealing, Abraham moving his knees in and out, nervous, agitated, in and out, Walter imitating him, after this there will be no hope of making contact, in and out, nervous, Abraham offended, stammering, ragged, green, orange, toothless, sturdy, in Shipibo, saying his children are innocent, sure, argument without conclusion, end of the meeting, encounter with Abraham, thinking about my work, about his teenage children, approaching, extending my hand, asking kindly, understanding…
—How are you?
—Good.
…polite smile, quick handshake…
—How are you?
—Good.
…polite smile, quick handshake…
* * * * * * *
…write that I can use the accusation not only as a way to observe what the process is to solve a problem of this type, but that instead of separating myself from my neighbors, it can be an excuse to get closer to them and get Walter and Lady to open up to me, Machiavellian, manipulative, ethnography, anthropology, the mother, the daughter, sitting at the door of their house, me approaching, asking…
–Are you sad?
…surprised by my visit…
–Yes.
…Lady speaking to me, finally, I’m going to earn her trust, with tact, the theft has been a fortunate event…
–I think it’s wrong that they accuse you. You are good neighbors. They don’t know who it was. Don Pedro doesn’t know who it was. I don’t know who it was.
…smooth-talking, surprise, silence, Noemí very sad mother, dazed?, incredulous…
–Really?
…my Machiavellian support, Michel, boy with a sidelong glance, it was him, it’s clear, but they are my main informants, if I support them in front of the whole town they will thank me…
–Are you sad?
…surprised by my visit…
–Yes.
…Lady speaking to me, finally, I’m going to earn her trust, with tact, the theft has been a fortunate event…
–I think it’s wrong that they accuse you. You are good neighbors. They don’t know who it was. Don Pedro doesn’t know who it was. I don’t know who it was.
…smooth-talking, surprise, silence, Noemí very sad mother, dazed?, incredulous…
–Really?
…my Machiavellian support, Michel, boy with a sidelong glance, it was him, it’s clear, but they are my main informants, if I support them in front of the whole town they will thank me…
* * * * * * *
The theft unleashed a storm over the village of Vencedor.
…walking down the only street in the village, the Lieutenant Governor meets me, serious, worried, circumspect…
–Carlitos, we’re going to Santa Rosa. There’s a fortune teller who plays the cedazo, and we’re going to ask her to throw it for Víctor.
…Michel, right? Víctor? Twelve years old, another of Abraham’s sons, quiet, once in my house, discreet, distant, fortune teller? cedazo? What kind of divination technique is that? I had never heard of it before. Does a Shipibo or a mestiza use it? Lieutenant Governor, motor, gasoline, two hours downriver…
–We’ll be back this afternoon.
…apparent calm in the village, Norma, wife of the Community Chief, absent in the city, Norma, in her sixties, powerful, boss, inviting me to her kitchen, offering me plantain drink, unshaken…
–We’re all very worried in the community. We can’t sleep… The money you gave the community is to pay the fortune teller.
–Carlitos, we’re going to Santa Rosa. There’s a fortune teller who plays the cedazo, and we’re going to ask her to throw it for Víctor.
…Michel, right? Víctor? Twelve years old, another of Abraham’s sons, quiet, once in my house, discreet, distant, fortune teller? cedazo? What kind of divination technique is that? I had never heard of it before. Does a Shipibo or a mestiza use it? Lieutenant Governor, motor, gasoline, two hours downriver…
–We’ll be back this afternoon.
…apparent calm in the village, Norma, wife of the Community Chief, absent in the city, Norma, in her sixties, powerful, boss, inviting me to her kitchen, offering me plantain drink, unshaken…
–We’re all very worried in the community. We can’t sleep… The money you gave the community is to pay the fortune teller.
* * * * * * *
…meeting, young and old, circle, center of the street, cloudy afternoon, arrogant Lieutenant Governor, raising his voice, trip to Santa Rosa, fortune teller, it was Abraham’s family, accuser…
–The mother and brother know, the father doesn’t.
…harsh accusation, Abraham angry, rags, shouting, unusual, it’s the first time I’ve seen someone shouting in this peaceful, united village, general movement toward Abraham’s house, men entering, women outside, sitting under the only tree on the long street, nursing their babies, watching amused, unusual, festive event, community registry, lifting palm leaves from the roof, around the house, underneath, in front, Norma the boss, active, Abraham helping the search, telling his son Michel…
–Bring Víctor!
…the distressed accused, a boy, slow, yellow polo shirt, led to the back, a circle of adults around him, pressure, questions, Norma the boss, the Lieutenant, the Agent, pressure without violence, led to the back of my house, I’m inside, watching from the window, Víctor searching, our eyes meet briefly, fear, little conviction in the search, little Michel with the piercing gaze searching determinedly…
–Where, boy?
…pointing to some tall grass, searching here, there, women chatting, spectacle, evening falling, darkening, giving up…
–Víctor says it wasn’t him, that it was another boy. And his brother Michel says his brother threw it behind your house. Tomorrow we’ll keep going until it comes out. It has to come out. Tomorrow it will come out. And now we’re going to have dinner.
–The mother and brother know, the father doesn’t.
…harsh accusation, Abraham angry, rags, shouting, unusual, it’s the first time I’ve seen someone shouting in this peaceful, united village, general movement toward Abraham’s house, men entering, women outside, sitting under the only tree on the long street, nursing their babies, watching amused, unusual, festive event, community registry, lifting palm leaves from the roof, around the house, underneath, in front, Norma the boss, active, Abraham helping the search, telling his son Michel…
–Bring Víctor!
…the distressed accused, a boy, slow, yellow polo shirt, led to the back, a circle of adults around him, pressure, questions, Norma the boss, the Lieutenant, the Agent, pressure without violence, led to the back of my house, I’m inside, watching from the window, Víctor searching, our eyes meet briefly, fear, little conviction in the search, little Michel with the piercing gaze searching determinedly…
–Where, boy?
…pointing to some tall grass, searching here, there, women chatting, spectacle, evening falling, darkening, giving up…
–Víctor says it wasn’t him, that it was another boy. And his brother Michel says his brother threw it behind your house. Tomorrow we’ll keep going until it comes out. It has to come out. Tomorrow it will come out. And now we’re going to have dinner.
* * * * * * *
…darkness, candlelight, hammock, sleep, sleeping, flashlight, noises, someone outside, strange, who?, teacher, attention-stand at ease-rest, we’ve never spoken, what is this now?, entering, quiet, what do you want?…
–Haven’t the things appeared?
…the theft, of course…
–I wanted to ask you to let me bring my bed here. There are some little plants that tell you who it is.
–What little plants?
–The same ones the doctor used. Once my wife’s document and one hundred soles were stolen from me. Well, the little plant showed me where it was and I recovered it. There are versions that say it was a boy, others that say it was a young man.
…versions? Surely many things have happened that I’m not aware of, conversation, silence, memories of military service, nostalgia for the army…
–What would I be if I had re-enlisted? At least a captain or lieutenant.
…attention-stand at ease-rest, anthem, flag, military teacher, mosquito net, sleep, toé, investigation…
–Haven’t the things appeared?
…the theft, of course…
–I wanted to ask you to let me bring my bed here. There are some little plants that tell you who it is.
–What little plants?
–The same ones the doctor used. Once my wife’s document and one hundred soles were stolen from me. Well, the little plant showed me where it was and I recovered it. There are versions that say it was a boy, others that say it was a young man.
…versions? Surely many things have happened that I’m not aware of, conversation, silence, memories of military service, nostalgia for the army…
–What would I be if I had re-enlisted? At least a captain or lieutenant.
…attention-stand at ease-rest, anthem, flag, military teacher, mosquito net, sleep, toé, investigation…
* * * * * * *
…in the morning, Lieutenant Governor, worried…
–Today the sawmill won’t work either.
–Why?
–We’re worried.
…theft unresolved, village shaken, moving…
–The teacher says he saw the boy, Víctor, enter the house and take the things. First he put them away and then threw them under a pile of grass.
…silence, doubt, contained question asked…
–So, how does the community stand with you? Does it have to pay you for what was stolen?
–No, this was stolen by a person, not the community. And don’t worry because I’m one of those who thinks bad deeds are paid for sooner or later.
–That’s right then.
–Today the sawmill won’t work either.
–Why?
–We’re worried.
…theft unresolved, village shaken, moving…
–The teacher says he saw the boy, Víctor, enter the house and take the things. First he put them away and then threw them under a pile of grass.
…silence, doubt, contained question asked…
–So, how does the community stand with you? Does it have to pay you for what was stolen?
–No, this was stolen by a person, not the community. And don’t worry because I’m one of those who thinks bad deeds are paid for sooner or later.
–That’s right then.
…relieved, happy, good people, good people…
* * * * * * *
The accused Víctor, wearing the Argentina jersey, together with his whole family.
…a lot of heat, powerful sun, blue sky, no clouds, visit to my neighbors, Abraham toothless, stocky, humble, friendly gesture, broken speech…
–My son is innocent Carlitos.
–It doesn’t matter, we must forget it now.
–The next day I went to Santa Rosa and the fortune teller told me: Your son is innocent; your wife is innocent.
–It doesn’t matter anymore.
–Who could it have been Carlitos?
–I don’t know.
–Whoever it was will pay for it. I trust in the Lord. He will pay.
…his wife beside him, tattered clothes, sagging breasts, hairy shins, pensive, Lady, young daughter, potential informant, saying she will go on Sunday to the town of Charashmaná, high school, walking with her father, opportunity, Machiavellian, her debt…
–Are you going and coming back the same day?
…my interest, unmistakable, his understanding, the guilt…
–Do you want to go? I will take you so you get to know the way.
…accommodating, helpful, Walter, the young son, potential informant, sewing his soccer boots…
–My son Víctor is innocent. The Lieutenant Governor wanted to put my son’s head in the latrine.
–My son is innocent Carlitos.
–It doesn’t matter, we must forget it now.
–The next day I went to Santa Rosa and the fortune teller told me: Your son is innocent; your wife is innocent.
–It doesn’t matter anymore.
–Who could it have been Carlitos?
–I don’t know.
–Whoever it was will pay for it. I trust in the Lord. He will pay.
…his wife beside him, tattered clothes, sagging breasts, hairy shins, pensive, Lady, young daughter, potential informant, saying she will go on Sunday to the town of Charashmaná, high school, walking with her father, opportunity, Machiavellian, her debt…
–Are you going and coming back the same day?
…my interest, unmistakable, his understanding, the guilt…
–Do you want to go? I will take you so you get to know the way.
…accommodating, helpful, Walter, the young son, potential informant, sewing his soccer boots…
–My son Víctor is innocent. The Lieutenant Governor wanted to put my son’s head in the latrine.
* * * * * * *
…the military-style teacher, Walter with his mended boots, me, soccer field, ball comes, control, ball goes, too early, too much sun, Lieutenant Governor walking in my direction…
–Can you come to your house for a moment?
–Yes, of course. …I am tired of so much investigation, fortune teller, canachiari, rumors, I’m going to tell him to forget it now, that it doesn’t matter, silence, scorching sun, Walter behind, with the ball, smiling, walking, my house…
–Can you wait a moment? We’ll be right back.
…mysterious, Lieutenant, going to the school, a trail of community members, returning, twenty people around my house, me inside, contained emotion, repressed smiles, heart pounding, blush, shy smile, solemn Lieutenant, composure, entering, ceremonious, rummaging in his pocket, they have found it, taking something out, extending his hand, opening his palm, triumphant…
–Is this your little device?
…people crowded, expectant at the windows, at the door, through the windows, watching, smiles of joy, communal happiness…
–Yes, yes it is.
…satisfaction, Norma the chief, Lieutenant Governor, relief, smiles, children, men and women attached to the outcome, Hollywood movie happy ending, embarrassment, but such good people, such good people…
–Can you come to your house for a moment?
–Yes, of course. …I am tired of so much investigation, fortune teller, canachiari, rumors, I’m going to tell him to forget it now, that it doesn’t matter, silence, scorching sun, Walter behind, with the ball, smiling, walking, my house…
–Can you wait a moment? We’ll be right back.
…mysterious, Lieutenant, going to the school, a trail of community members, returning, twenty people around my house, me inside, contained emotion, repressed smiles, heart pounding, blush, shy smile, solemn Lieutenant, composure, entering, ceremonious, rummaging in his pocket, they have found it, taking something out, extending his hand, opening his palm, triumphant…
–Is this your little device?
…people crowded, expectant at the windows, at the door, through the windows, watching, smiles of joy, communal happiness…
–Yes, yes it is.
…satisfaction, Norma the chief, Lieutenant Governor, relief, smiles, children, men and women attached to the outcome, Hollywood movie happy ending, embarrassment, but such good people, such good people…
